... and then the rain came

It appears that the swell dry spell is over.

Praise the Lord.
Three weeks I've spent frothing over my new log. I haven't dared take it in on anything less than clean little peelers for fear of a bad session caused by crap surf giving me bad first impressions. Well this evening provided just such conditions. 
Verdict....I've fallen in love.
Then I pretty much crawled like a half dead man up the dunes. 
Pic courtesy of Fang


  1. wowzers... looks like an epic session!
    glad the new board is working out well- ever surfed california by any chance?

  2. it was rather! sore shoulders today though, need to get fit!
    as for surfing cali, sure have, love it over there!