Gonna wash my bones in the Atlantic shores



Sometimes, especially when I haven't surfed for a week or two, and I arrive at the beach to be presented with absolute glassy perfection, I literally shake with anticipation. With limited light left in the evenings, it's a mad scrabble to get changed and into the water, heart pounding away wildly at the thought of those long clean rides.
Is that just me being a little strange?


4 comments:

  1. HELL NO! we've all been there- altho this flat spell is turning out to be a bit of a bummer!
    xx

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