Here it comes...

Tonight was either the prelude to something mahoosive or it peaked early. The 17ft @11 sec is supposed to be arriving early tomorrow but my guess is it'll have come early as it often does. 
I got down the beach just before it got on the high tide bank and it was cranking. Every man and his dog had descended, the other beaches must not have been holding it too well. 
Looked good but I had no board with me, not a problem, Greenstick said he had one for me. 
Opened the back of the van...oh shit, it was a UV tinted dark orange triple stringer longboard he'd shaped well over a decade ago, it'd spent a least the last five years abandoned in the undergrowth down the bottom of the garden somewhere. It weighs a ton and doesn't float very well. Hey ho, it was that or sit on the beach and watch.
Tricky conditions, with bigger sets tending to close out and a shifting shoulder, I was sat there on that old turd of a board on the edge of my comfort zone. It was a good fun wave though with a nice steep drop. The hardest part was making it back through the shore-dump, fighting the backwash to scrabble up the beach before the next one got ya. 

Just wish I had more than the crappy iphone camera with me. Will be going for a nose in the morning.


  1. woot woot! way to go. At least you had he nerve to paddle the beast out, I may have opted for the "wrong board"

  2. Well I did that bust out of the office, all afroth to get in the water, changed and heading in before I really looked at the conditions and thought about the pig under my arm.
    That excuse did cross my mind, but not until I was in my wetsuit wrapping a leash round my ankle on waters edge. It seemed a little late by then to turn back...!!