Dear Danielle.... sure were a lot of fun. Please come back while the water is still warm and the evenings are light(ish), we all miss you terribly.

Fang snapped this just before we headed out last Thursday morning. It was the first proper showing of a beauty swell that hung around for a good few days.

Seemed like everyone knew it was coming, 6.45am and already about 50 people in the water. I didn't realise it was going to be quite so chunky, a good 4-5ft at Perran meant the log was a bit of a beast, luckily, however, long lulls meant the paddle out wasn't too traumatic.
The wind picked up a little by about 8.00 but it was bang offshore so not affecting the form. The 16 sec period meant the lulls were so long at one point I convinced myself it'd dropped off, went for a few smaller ones further caught on the inside as a set rained down. Schoolboy.

Gutted I didn't take my camera on any of those surfs, every now and then I'd catch myself just watching it, it was so perfect. Well nearly perfect....minus the couple hundred or so black forms dotted around.


  1. Ahh, what a week that was... Just about as good as it gets, I agree 'twas almost perfect. There certainly were a lorra lorra lefts rolling through.

  2. In true September form. Time for some more now please

  3. The evenings are sooo NOT light now. The next season is coming and i'm not finished with this one yet.