Today was a good day...

For several reasons. 
The surf report showed there merest hint of a possible wave, so alarm set, got up at 6.20am trying to hit it before it got properly on to high tide. This is not a normal occurrence on a weekend day but had a very hectic day planned, would be my only chance to get in). Couldn't believe it, on a nearly flat Saturday there was already two dudes in the car park getting changed. Good sign, went and looked at the water, hmmm...what were they getting changed for? Surfable? Barely. Sat there for about ten minutes umming and aaahing, then saw two more dudes rock up with <9ft boards. Could these guys see something I couldn't? 
So thought bugger it, be good to get in for a paddle at least. Well turns out it was pretty good fun, no more than thigh high on the sets but super clean and nice long rides. Got out, couldn't feel my hands but buzzing. It's been a while.
I then got home, a fin I've been hankering after was out of stock, but the chap emails me to say he found one in the warehouse. Result.
And lastly. Most importantly. The wheels were set in motion for something I've been planning for over a year and finally have the coin for. NEW BOARD. Woohoo.
Went and met with Chris Jones, legend. Had a good chat, order in. At this point dad interjected and said he had some sweet wenge for a stringer (ok not quite his words), comes out almost black when it's laquered. Styling. Sadly turns out the wenge was only coming in at around the 9ft mark, so back to the drawing board on that one. Could be patriotic and go for oak, after all on the beaut I've ordered weight doesn't really matter!
So, at this point I feel it only right to pay tribute to my trusty steed of the last decade. Love the board to bits, frigging hate the paint job (bought second hand - no my taste didn't desert me mid nineties). She's done me proud.
Good times.


  1. know how you feel:

  2. I like that a lot!! Very cool illustrations