The beauty of blogging, (now I'm an old hand having been in the game a full two weeks), is that it's making me try and capture more of what's going on around me that might be of interest, whether that's images or just my random drivel. I'm normally pretty useless at taking piccies and the one below is grainy and crap cos it was taken on my iphone, BUT, it got me started on carrying a camera and capturing those moments. It was taken a few weeks back now and I just love the mid summer stormy feel to the photo.
The surf picked up and picked up all evening, I think most other beaches weren't holding the size and that little bit of extra shelter here kept things clean. As a longboarder, I waited for the lulls and paddled like stink, not wanting one of those badboys on the head. Once I was outback I realised 1) it was huge (I'm more of a 2-3ft cruisey wave kind of girl), 2) I was a bit scared and 3) I was a lone log ranger, the shear steepness of the takeoffs soon made me realise why.
Pretty much every good shortboarder around descended on the beach that evening, not being a fan of aggro crowds I admit I was sat outback crapping myself for a minute or five. I did however score a few good waves and although none were the absolute monster set ones I must say the speed and power of the waves was pretty exhilarating.
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